Wednesday, November 2, 2011

Yamaha R1

Yamaha R1 / YZF R1 series 3 2002 - 2003 

 The Yamaha R1, or  if you prefer the Yamaha YZF R1.
 This model is the Yamaha R1 5PW  2002 - 2003 version, it is the first major update Yamaha did to the R1 and is regarded by many as its best looking.
  The update included the addition of fuel injection, which delivers as much fuel as the engine needs at the given rpm.


  The Instrument display lights up in blue, has a rev counter and a large digital read out of the current speed. The select button scrolls through 2 trip counters,the Odometer and if held for 1 second displays the time. The rev limit light can be adjusted to illuminate at your desired rev limit. When the ignition is first turned on the rev counter needle is used as an indication to problems the computer diagnostic might find, and the bike makes some impressive servo noises as it goes through its checks. The bike has twin headlights which cannot be turned off and was the first version of the R1 to have a rear light made of LEDs. The rear section of the seat lifts off to reveal a compartment big enough for the tool kit, a drink and a KitKat !

   Riding it
  The seat is nicely padded, and  the reach to the bars is not too far. The foot pegs are quite high and back giving it an agressive feel. On longer journeys or sitting in traffic can cause wrist and shoulder/neck ache as for me at 6 feet tall the handlebars could do with being a fraction higher, but sitting close to the tank helps this a bit. Out on the road the bike has a lot of punch when you open the throttle, turns quickly, yet feels stable at the same time. Pirelli Diablo Corsa tyres give great grip and feed back giving confidence through the bends. I found the best tyre pressure for me is 31psi in the front and 40 on the rear.

  Official stas and Everyday Superbikes Stats
  •  Engine size - 998cc
  •  Power - 150 BHP
  •  Top Speed - 165 MPH    (160 seen)
  •  Weight - 175 Kg
  •  Fuel Capacity - 17 Ltrs
  •  Avg MPG - 38   (42 seen regularly)
  •  Tank Range - 149 miles (but only if you have spent a long time in 6th gear)
  •  Insurance group - 16
  •  Tyres - Front 120/70 17, Rear 190/70 17
  •  Settings - I like 31psi in my front tyre and 40psi in the rear.
  •  Suspension is fully adjustable, One must do, is to stiffen up the rear shock.

Settings Standard Yamaha settings
          Front:- Preload - 6 lines showing
                       Rebound - 1.75 turns out from full in
                       Compression - 1.5 turns out from fully in
          Rear:- Preload - Position 4 / 9
                      Rebound - 2 turn out from full in
                      Compression 2 turn out from full in
                      Tyre Pressures F 36 : R 42

Performance bikes recommended road settings which we also like:-
           Front:- Preload - 4 lines showin
                       Rebound - 0.75 turns out from full in
                       Compression - fully in
            Rear:- Preload - Position 5th or 6th
                       Rebound - 0.75 turn out from full in
                       Compression 1 turn out from full in
                       Tyre Pressures F 34 : R 39

      My bike has got a Power commander, a Blue Flame exhaust can, K&N air filter and oil filter and I have replaced the brake hoses for a set of braided ones.
    I have made an aluminium spacer to raise the front seat by 7.5mm which helps my knees and added Crash Bobbins incase it should fall on to its side.
     I have a double bubble screen which makes a small difference when touring, though I like the look with the original screen better.

       Common Problems.

    Gearboxes have an issue going from 1st into 2nd gear this is most common on bikes that have been wheelied alot. If you have this problem its not a cheap fix. Expect to pay between £450 and £500 to get this sorted out but it can be done in a couple of days.
     Also the Exup valve can seize up, symptoms are the bike feels as though it is lacking power at low revs. Its a problem Jon had when he owend the Yamaha Thunderace. Its not too hard to fix and normally can be done with a bit of effort and some WD40.
     The Regulator / Rectifier / Stator, this is to do with an electrical / charging problem. Common fixes are to add a pc fan to cool it down.
     Neutral switches can stick but can be easily fixed with some WD40.
    The wiring loom has a big white connection block at the front end of the bike, this can get corroded and cause electrical problems, but its not a major problem to repair.

    Check the R1 owners forum for information that may help solve any issues you may have.

     Problems I have Encountered

     The few problems that I have had, was with the neutral switch click to see more, and the Stator/regulator rectifier
     Also the auto choke seized up so again with some WD40 the problem was sorted out.
      I had a low speed accident when pulling out of a junction avoiding a pot hole in the road, which damaged the clutch case/cover and edge of the exhaust can. The clutch cover was expensive, so thats the reason for fitting crash bobbins.

       Newer versions.

     On the newer versions of the R1, Yamaha have kept a similar riding position, adjusted the position of the exhaust, added some googlie eye headlights and added an array of electronic wizardary, however you will need to find out about those bikes elsewhere.

    As New

    YZF - R1  1998 and 2002 models
    Ready for take off
    R1 At Spa

    Just after a lap of the Nurburgring Nordschleife

    Jon bought the R1 brand new.
    Look at his little face!

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